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One Year After Handover: A Glass Greenhouse Running at Full Capacity — And What Its Installation Details Tell You About Long-Term Performance
One year ago, we handed over a glass greenhouse to a commercial grower. This month, we returned to walk through it — not to fix things, but to watch it work.
What you will see in the 50-second walkthrough video above is a complete system running at full capacity, every day: automated roof and side vents with insect netting on every opening, internal shading screens, HAF circulation fans, heating pipes built into the gutters, and one climate controller managing temperature, humidity and light in real time.
But the most important part of this video is not the equipment. It is the installation details. Because a greenhouse is not a product you buy — it is a structure and a set of systems that have to perform together, every day, for five to ten years. The difference between a greenhouse that runs smoothly for a decade and one that needs constant repair is not the brand on the fan or the vent motor. It is the install.
In this article, we break down what the video shows, why each detail matters, and what you should ask any greenhouse supplier before you sign.
The Systems You See in the Video
Automated Roof and Side Vents with Insect Netting
The greenhouse has both roof vents and side vents, both motorised and automated. Every single opening — roof and side — is covered with insect netting. That is not a trivial detail: the standard practice in some markets is to net only the ridge vents and skip the side walls. A single unnetted side opening is enough to let aphids, whitefly and thrips inside, and once they establish in a tomato or cucumber crop they are expensive to control.
The vent motors are tied to the climate computer, which stages vent opening based on temperature first, then humidity, then CO₂ level. The side walls open before the ridge so cool outside air enters the growing zone without pulling in dust from the ridge area.
Internal Shading and Screens
Two layers run inside: a shade screen for light and heat control in summer, and a thermal (energy-saving) curtain that drops at night to cut heating loss by 30–40%. Both are tensioned on rolling systems and linked to the same controller. The tensioning matters here — loose screens flap, catch on crops and wear unevenly. You can see in the video how the screen rollers are mounted to the same frame posts as the gutters, so they stay aligned year after year.
HAF Circulation Fans
Twelve HAF (horizontal air flow) fans are mounted under the ridge, pointing down the length of each bay. These do not exchange air with the outside — they move the air inside so temperature and humidity stay uniform at crop level. Without them, warm air pools at the ridge while the canopy sits 3–4°C cooler, and the climate computer reads the ridge temperature as if the whole house is at setpoint. The fans run at variable speed, stepping up only when the vent position or humidity spread tells them to.
Gutter-Integrated Heating
The heating pipes run inside the aluminium gutters rather than separately under the benches. This is a space-saving choice, but it also means the gutters double as a heat source along every row. The pipes are finned-tube, and the hot water flows through them in staged banks — baseline at moderate demand, additional banks on the coldest nights. The heating schedule is tied to outdoor temperature through the climate computer, not just a fixed on/off cycle.
Climate Controller
One controller — a climate computer from a leading brand — ties vents, screens, fans, heating and lighting together. It reads temperature and humidity at multiple points inside, plus outdoor conditions, and stages each system independently. The grower monitors it from a dashboard on their phone and laptop.
The Installation Details You Should Not Overlook
This is the part most buyers skip until it is too late. The video spends more time on installation close-ups than on the full greenhouse shot. There is a reason for that.
Gutter Alignment and Fall
Gutters are levelled and given a precise fall (slope) before glazing goes up. If they are out of level by more than a few millimetres, water pools in the low spot and eventually leaks through the glazing seal. If the fall is wrong, water runs the wrong way. You can see in the close-up how each gutter bracket is shimmed and torqued to spec before the next one goes up.
Frame Connections
Every bolted connection on the steel frame is torqued to a manufacturer-specified value and marked with a witness pen. That means an inspector — from our team or from yours — can walk the greenhouse later and tell at a glance whether a bolt has worked loose. We do this on every project because frame connections relax over time as the greenhouse cycles through hot and cold seasons, and we want them re-tightened if needed, not surprised by a sagging bay.
Vent Drive Mechanisms
The rack-and-pinion drives that open the roof vents are aligned along the full travel of the vent — closed to fully open — not just at mid-point. A vent that binds at the end of its travel will burn out its motor. We test every vent through the full cycle and record the travel time before handover.
Screen Tensioning and Cable Routing
Screen cables run in plastic conduits and are separated from irrigation pipes. That prevents abrasion and makes maintenance easier. Screens are tensioned to a measured value, not a feel — the spec is written on each screen box before it goes up. Loose screens are the single most common service call on year-two greenhouses.
Why One Year Matters
Most greenhouse suppliers will show you photos or drone footage immediately after installation. We show you the same greenhouse a year later because that is when the real story comes out.
After one year, every vent has opened and closed thousands of times. Every screen has rolled and unrolled through both summer heat and winter cold. Every frame connection has expanded and contracted through temperature cycles. If the install was sloppy, this is when it fails. If the install was done to spec, this is when the greenhouse settles in and runs steadily.
That is what the video shows: a greenhouse that settled in, not one that is still settling.
What to Ask Before You Sign
If you are planning a commercial greenhouse and talking to suppliers, ask these questions:
Can I see a greenhouse you installed and handed over at least six months ago? Fresh installs all look good. A year-old one tells you about the installer, not the salesman.
Do you torque and mark frame connections? Witness marks are not a luxury — they are how you prove the install was done to spec, and how you spot loose connections before they become a problem.
How do you tension screens? "We pull them tight" is not an answer. "To 40 daN with a tension meter" is.
Do you test every vent through its full travel before handover? Partial-cycle testing misses binding at the end positions, which is where vent motors usually fail.
Are gutter fall and alignment verified before glazing? The glazing seals to the gutter; if the gutter is wrong, the seal will fail and you will be chasing leaks for years.
System Reference Specifications
System | Specification |
Roof vents | Motorised rack-and-pinion, automated, insect-netted |
Side vents | Motorised, automated, insect-netted on every opening |
Internal shading | Rolling shade screen, controller-linked, tensioned |
Thermal curtain | Night-time heat retention, doubles as summer shade |
Circulation fans | HAF, variable-speed, under-ridge mounting |
Heating | Finned-tube inside gutters, staged by climate computer |
Climate control | Multi-zone, real-time monitoring, dashboard access |
Glazing | Tempered glass, sealed to aluminium gutters |
FAQs
Q: How long should a commercial glass greenhouse last? A: With proper installation and annual maintenance, the steel frame should last 15–20 years, the glazing 10–15 years, and the motors and controllers 5–8 years. The single biggest factor on lifespan is installation quality, not material brand.
Q: Why does gutter alignment matter so much? A: Gutters carry rainwater away and support the glazing. Out-of-level gutters cause pooling (which leaks) and uneven glazing pressure (which breaks seals). They must be levelled and given the correct fall before the first pane of glass goes up.
Q: Are all side vents insect-netted, or just the ridge? A: Every single opening. A greenhouse is only as pest-proof as its weakest opening. Skipping the side vents is a false economy — one unnetted gap is enough for a pest population to establish.
Q: Should I see witness marks on frame bolts? A: Yes. Witness marks (a line across the bolt and frame with a pen) are a standard quality-control practice. They let anyone walk the greenhouse later and spot at a glance whether a bolt has loosened. If your supplier does not do this, ask why.
Q: What is the difference between HAF fans and exhaust fans? A: HAF (horizontal air flow) fans move air inside the greenhouse for uniform temperature and humidity. Exhaust fans exchange that air with the outside, typically paired with a wet pad for evaporative cooling. A properly designed greenhouse needs both.
Q: How do I test whether a vent drive is aligned? A: Open and close the vent manually through its full travel. It should move freely and evenly from closed to fully open, with no binding or resistance at either end. Record the time for one full cycle and compare it to the manufacturer's spec.
Ready to Build Yours?
Every greenhouse SHG delivers is installed to spec, inspected and signed off before handover — and we are happy to show you ones that have been running for a year or more.
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